All together exceptional watches
In addition to the typical Glashütte specialties, the watches from NOMOS feature numerous extras. Such features are far beyond the normal expectation for watches that are so affordably priced. For example:
NOMOS date mechanism
Is it mom’s birthday already? Have your monthly wages arrived to your bank account yet? Sometimes dates are important. Actually, a date mechanism is nothing very special, definitely something you come across from time to time. But the NOMOS mechanism is a bit of a special case. The date ring of the patented Glashütte design by Thierry Albert sits around the movement, not on top of it, as is usually the case. Thus, the movement is able to fit into the same flat case, despite having about 30 extra parts. As a result, there is nothing added to the height of the watch. With the aid of the NOMOS “rapid function,” the date can be quickly adjusted by winding the hour hand back and forth between the eight and the one. When completely wound, a watch with this mechanism has a power reserve of 42 hours. This is about three hours less than that of the standard Tangente without date, since a bit of the watch’s power is expended in changing the days. In order to reduce friction, the date ring runs on six cambered rubies.
From fall onwards, there is a new NOMOS long-distance date: a extra large window by the six. The typography of each date ring was fashioned specifically for each model - each version (Tangente, Orion, Ludwig) was fitted with its own cipher. The side effect: the new date versions enlarged the movement and thereby the watch. And have made it even more elegant than before.
NOMOS power reserve indicator
Like the date mechanism, this extra feature also requires only very few additional pieces and therefore does not add to the watch’s overall height. Consequently, watches with a power reserve indicator still retain the typical NOMOS flatness. This function, which is designed to remind the wearer to wind the watch, has also been patented. It is activated by taking the crown between the thumb and index finger and turning it, in other words, by winding the watch. If you’re the kind of person who is awake during the day and sleeps at night, it is best to do this first thing after waking up in the morning. This way, the watch will have at least 42 hours of working time, sufficient power to withstand all the strains of the day.
This is one of the structural components of the movement. It was first introduced in 1864 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange and is considered a typical feature of watches manufactured in Glashütte. The three-quarter plate acts as a counterpart to the main plate. The train and the winding mechanism run between these two plates. Only the anchor and the balance wheel are held by separate frame components. The three-quarter plate, as its name implies, covers about 75% of the movement, lending it particular stability, and thereby making the watch more accurate. The plate is also finished with fine Glashütte ribbing.
Nivarox 1A spring
The balance spring in NOMOS watches is antimagnetic, rustproof, and compensates for fluctuations in temperature. Nivarox 1A is the name of a special alloy from iron, nickel, titanium, chrome, and beryllium.
When the screws used in NOMOS movements are heated to 300° Celsius in an oven, magnetite forms on the surface turning them a pleasant shade of blue. The bluing also makes the materials resistant to corrosion.
A NOMOS watch hugs the wrist. NOMOS uses materials that are exceptionally pleasant to the skin. The crown, used to wind and set the watch, is easily graspable. All NOMOS watches are constructed to avoid any unwanted complications. The clasp is secure. The glass that covers the face and the caseback is pleasantly shaped and scratch-resistant: the only thing harder than the sapphire crystal we use is diamond. The cases of NOMOS watches are made of 316L grade stainless steel, so-called “surgical steel.” They are essentially safe from nickel emissions. At 0.2μ/cm²/week, the release of nickel ions from our watches is far below the medically recommended limit.
We put great importance on functionality for all NOMOS watches. They are simple, intelligible, and easy to read. This applies to the basic timepieces without additional features as well as to our patented date and power reserve mechanisms.
“Glashütte” Protected Designation of Origin
NOMOS watches are Glashütte watches. The same cannot be said of all watches made here. Not just anybody can adorn their watches with the “Glashütte” designation simply because they happen to have a company here or they themselves are from Glashütte. In order to be permitted to sell a watch as a “Glashütte watch,” the law stipulates that at least 50 percent of the movement’s value must be added in Glashütte. Depending on the model, NOMOS does between 75 and 95 percent of the work on the calibers itself.
Horween Shell Cordovan
The standard NOMOS straps are made from the best horse leather in the world. The leather comes from a special part of the hind quarters of a horse and is so rare nowadays that it is only used for very expensive shoes…and watch straps for NOMOS Glashütte. This thick, water-repellant, matte leather is not only very beautiful, but also much more robust than the leather used in most other watch straps. It is more durable and does not need to be oiled, since it contains more than enough natural fat to endure the lifetime of the strap.
Coated (in most cases with silver) by means of electroplating, the surfaces of NOMOS watch dials are less sensitive to ultra-violet light and are more even in color.
The Glashütte click is a component in the winding system. It prevents the ratchet wheel from being turned backwards when winding. The Glashütte click is distinguished from the clicks used in Switzerland in form, not in function: it is more beautiful and ensures softer winding.
Incabloc shock protection
DIN 8308 specifies that a watch has to withstand a vertical drop from a one-metre height onto hardwood flooring without sustaining functional damage to its case or movement parts, or hands or glass. Many parts of a watch require no special protective measures to withstand such a fall without damage. The balance or staff, which sits on the balance cock, on the other hand, is very susceptible to breakage. You see, the balance wheel is extremely overweight compared with the slim balance staff on which it sits. The balance staff can break by falling from a height of just a few centimetres, which is why it is spring-mounted and therefore shockproof. You can easily recognise the spring through the glass back: it is the small gold-coloured hook above the ruby red jewel bearing of the balance staff. NOMOS uses possibly the most well-known shock protection system, the “Incabloc.”
Nowadays, the rubies used in watch movements are fabricated synthetically. They are turned on special machinery using diamonds, which increases their quality. NOMOS rubies not only function as jewel bearings, but also help to lubricate the movements. The lubricating oil is welled up within special tiny depressions in the rubies, visible with a magnifying glass. The oil remains there for a number of years, being released little by little in miniscule amounts. The tiniest droplets of lubrication are distributed to the arbors by means of a sort of capillary motion. The number of jewel bearings varies depending on the movement. The Alpha and Gamma movements utilize 17 jewels, while Beta and Delta have 23, and the automatic movements contain 26.
Sapphire crystal glas
Synthetic glass produced according to the so-called Verneuil process, which is as hard as sapphire. Only diamonds, wolfram carbide, silizium carbide and bor carbide can scratch sapphire crystal. It is used for all NOMOS watches, including the glass back.
The stop second mechanism is a function which allows the watch to be stopped and reset to the exact second. This occurs by the pressure of the stop second spring against the balance rim. And this is done by pulling out the Crown.
The teeter-motion rectifier, is a favourite NOMOS-designed part, visible through the back made out of sapphire crystal. It is not only a good conversation starter when you are waiting for the bus but also ensures that the rotor can wind the main spring in both directions. Thanks to the teeter-motion rectifier, just a few movements are enough to power the watch.